Janice Wainwright

In 1940 Janice Wainwright was born in Chesterfield, England. Janice attended three post secondary schools throughout her lifetime: Wimbledon School of Art(now Wimbledon College of Art), Kingston School of Art and the Royal College of Art in London

60's Cut-Out Mini Dress, sold for £125

In 1965 Janice started working for the label "Simon Massey."

60's Janice for Simon Massey Mini Dress

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

1968 Rayon Dress, retailed at Sidney Smith Boutique

(courtesy of V & A Museum and Museum of Costume, Bath )

She soon became highly respected by world-renowned designer, Ossie Clark. It has been documented that she was the only designer besides Ossie himself to be permitted use to Celia Birtwell's textiles in the 60's.

60's Purple Velvet Waistcoat

In 1969 Janice stopped working for Simon Massey. It wasn't until 1970 that she started designing under her own label, 'Janice Wainwright at Forty Seven Poland Street.' Janice's work in the 70's was a lot more sophisticated then her youthful designs of the 60's.

70's Green Dress

Embroidery became a signature of Janice's work during the 'Poland Street' era. Her work became a lot more intricate, focusing more on detail. She continued to work under that label until 1974 where she switched simply to 'Janice Wainwright.'

70's Embroidered Jacket

Janice's love in detail heightened in the mid 70's. Although, she returned to the simpler silhouette's and designs in the late 70's. She continued the pattern all throughout the 80's.

( all images on this post were supplied by http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/ unless stated otherwise)

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Aristos

In 1966 fashion designer Aristos Constantinou opened the very first "Aristos" boutique. It was located on Carnaby Street like many of the other great boutiques of the era.

In 1971 Aristos and his brother Achilleas went into business together to form "Ariella Fashions." The clothing labels then changed from simply just "Aristos" to "designed by Aristos."

Late Sixties Suede Mini Dress, £145
(picture courtesy of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/, currently available at http://www.sixtiespop.co.uk/)

The company greatly expanded in the 70's. After new locations on Carnaby Street, Oxford Street, Duke Street and Newburgh Street, Punch Magazine named Aristos "the power of Carnaby Street."

1970's Silk Chevron Dress
(courtesy of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

70's Mushroom Dress

(courtesy of www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk)

70's Novelty Print Dress

(courtesy of www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk)

Aristos eventually became a wholesale label that sold to large retailers. In 1974 there were already 9 different branches including stores in the USA and Switzerland.

1970's Chiffon Dress
(currently for sale at http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/emmapeelpants/)

The label continued until 1985 when Aristos was shot to death. Although, the name was still running in the wholesale division. Throughout the 80's and 90's Ariella Fashion received many fashion awards and Achilleas kept his place in fashion by founding important organizations such as the British Fashion Council.

(Sorry I have not posted in so long! I have been working on a Biba article. I just need to get some facts straightened out before I can post it.)

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Apple Boutique

In the early sixties three Dutch fashion designers named Josje Leeger, Marijke Koeger and Simon Posthua opened the clothing boutique "The Trend" in Amsterdam. Even though it was a success it was closed due to financial problems.

The three designers settled in London after traveling throughout Europe. It was there that they met and teamed up with designer Barry Finch along with his manager Simon Hayes. The group named themselves "The Fool" after the Joker in Tarot Cards.

"The Fool"

Josje Leeger met model Pattie Boyd at Mantagu Square where Ringo Star, band mate of Pattie's husband George Harrison owned a Town House. Pattie loved Josje's designs so much that she mentioned her in an interview and offered to model her creations.

Pattie modelling Josje's designs, August 1967

Pattie wasn't the only person in the Beatles family that "The Fool"'s work appealed too. John Lennon reportedly declared "This is where I want to live" after walking in to their home. He then got them to paint and design his piano and his Gibson guitar. George Harrison also had "The Fool" paint his fireplace.

George Harrison's Fire Place

In September 1967 The Beatles opened a clothing boutique at 94 Baker Street as apart of the new Apple Corps empire. They decided to give "The Fool" £100,000 to design and stock the store. The Fool gathered a group of art students to help them paint the exterior. This angered business owners near by and brought in many complaints. The Beatles themselves were in charge of the interior. Paul McCartney would come in the mornings and ask the workers to change around the store, John would then come in later and order everything to be moved back.

The exterior of Apple Boutique, painted by "The Fool"

In December 1967 Apple Boutique held its opening night. Apple juice was handed out to guests as they walked in. Inside there was a fashion show and circus acts. This is thought to be the first time John Lennon was publicly seen with future wife Yoko Ono.

Opening Night Invitation

John Lennon's childhood friend Pete Shotton became the new manager, he was helped by George Harrison's sister-in-law Jennie Boyd. Other staff were Caleb who slept under the showcase during breaks and a woman who dressed daily in authentic gypsy costume.

Jennie Boyd inside Apple

The boutique ran into problems when Pete discovered that "The Fool" had purchased thousands of pounds worth of luxurious fabrics. The clothes would cost a lot more to make then they would be sold for. When John Lennon was confronted about this he shrugged it off saying, "Oh, let them do what they want. We're not business freaks, we're artists... if we don't make and money, what does it matter?"

Pete Shotton ended up quiting after 2 months. The store had huge changing rooms that were perfect for shop lifters and the designs seemed to be last years fashions.

Pattie Boyd and others model Apple's fashions

In only 7 months Apple had lost almost £200,000. Jon Lyndon, the new manager threatened to ban "The Fool" from the store if they charged any more debts to Apple. They were forced to remove the outside mural and it now was pure white and declared that you were at Apple above the windows.

On July 30th 1968 the Apple staff were told to open the doors the next day and give the stock away. John and Yoko were the first to go through the store, they walked away with arms full of merchandise that they piled into John's Rolls Royce. Paul found one jacket and Ringo said he couldn't find anything that fit. The giveaway was publicised in the newspaper and the next morning there was a line up outside the store three blocks long. There was no limit to how much stock people could take. It was so busy that they opened the basement so that customers could go right out the other side.

"We decided to close down our Baker Street shop yesterday and instead of putting up a sign saying, 'Business will be resumed as soon as possible', and then auction off the goods, we decided to give them away. The shops were doing fine and making a nice profit on turnover. So far, the biggest loss is in giving the things away, but we did that deliberately. We're giving them away - rather than selling them to barrow boys - because we wanted to give rather than sell. Originally, the shops were intended to be something else, but they just became like all the boutiques in London. They just weren't our thingy. The staff will get three weeks' pay but if they wish they'll be absorbed into the rest of Apple. Everyone will be cared for."

- Paul McCartney

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Quorum

Alice Pollock opened the boutique "Quorum" in 1964. In 1965 Ossie Clark along with his wife, Celia Birtwell joined her.

1965 dress by Ossie Clark

Most of the stores designs were by Ossie and Alice, where as Celia would design the textiles. Many of the clothes sported op-art prints and short hemlines, which were very popular at the moment.

1965 Alice Pollock design

1965 Ossie Clark design

Quorum was known to have extravagant fashion shows. Celebrity's such as The Beatles would attend these.

By the late 60's the hem lines became longer and the designs more romantic.

1969 Ossie Clark design, print by Celia Birtwell

Despite how successful Quorum had become the store fell into debt and was sold to Radley in 1969. All three designers continued their career into the 70's.

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I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet

In the mid-sixties Jimmy Connors founded the store "I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet." It was run by Robert Orbach and owned by Ian Fisk. The original store was at 293 Portobello Road in Notting Hill. Due to great popularity throughout 1966 and 1967 new stores opened on Kings Road and Carnaby Court.

It mainly sold uniforms(most military), movie costumes, vintage and pop-art clothing. Products were also available by mail order.

Jimmy Connor in the shop

I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet was a favourite store of Jimi Hendrix who purchased his well known braided military coat there. Other celebrity's that frequented the boutique were Eric Clapton, The Beatles and The Who. Peter Blake said that he got the idea for the The Beatles Sergeant Peppers album cover while walking past the shop.

The shops soon started to attract tourists. In reaction to this new novelty items such as post cards and ash trays became available.

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Thea Porter

In the mid sixties Thea Porter opened "Thea Porter Decorations" in Soho London selling fabrics, caftans, carpets, pillows and other exotic goods. She soon started to design and produce the items herself due to overwhelming demand.

She became a favourite of many celebrities, including Andrew Loog Oldham and Brian Jones.

"The Thea Porter clothing was wonderful. I had some myself, but had to be careful, I couldn't carry it off the way Brian could. I don't know of what age you are and therefore whether you've ever held a Thea Porter garment in your hands, or worn it, but her work and detail was absolutely exquisite, way beyond the dry cleaning skills of the day. The only way I could give mine a decent life was to check into a good hotel and have my Porter garb attended to there."
- Andrew Loog Oldham

Her clothes were featured in The Beatles "Magical Mystery Tour" album sleeve along with Pink Floyd's "Piper at the Gates of Dawn."

Although the store was in Britain her clothes were well sought after all over the world. In 1968 a boutique was opened in New York followed by an outlet in Paris six years later.

I am not sure exactly when it was that Thea Porter closed her boutiques, if I find the information I will definitely post it.

Porter’s clothes had a bohemian look, using ethnic fabrics and designs.

60's Bohemian Dress, must inquire for price
http://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/

1970's silk chiffon, brocade and velvet dress

(courtesy of the V & A museum)

The three above images are all from the July 1969 issue of vogue and feature the clothes of Thea Porter. They were photographed by Norman Parkinson and shot in Wales.
(courtesy of Elizabeth Eggleston of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

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John Bates

John Bates started his career as an apprentice at Herbert Sidon in the late 50's. Around 1960 he was asked to start the label Jean Varon. Although he claims to have come up with the name himself, "I called it Jean Varon because at the time an English name like John Bates meant nothing, you had to appear to be French. Jean is French for John and Varon because there was no ‘V’ in the rag trade book. Jean Varon made a good graphic image”

John Bates was a huge contributor in introducing the miniskirt. He designed the costumes for Emma Peel on the fourth season of the TV series The Avengers including what he called, "the smallest dress in the world." In 1965 these designs became very popular and sold out through shops within Britain. The same year one of his designs won "dress of the year."

Other designs John Bates helped popularize were the trouser suit(1962), string vest dresses(1963), bridal catsuits, striped tube dresses, the "bikini" dress, and stockings with matching dresses(1964.) He was also known for his pop-art designs, mesh fabrics and the use of PVC (polyvinyl chloride.)

(both above outfits are from 1965)

1967 PVC dress, owned by Elizabeth Eggleston

(It is currently at the V & A Museum)

Towards the end of the 60's the clothing started becoming softer and more feminine. He became more known for his evening wear. In 1972 John Bates formed his own label. He continued to design for Jean Varon, although his own label was a lot more expensive. Sometime in the late 70's or early 80's his label went bankrupt and he decided to leave the fashion business. Jean Varon continued through the 80's with designer Tom Bowker. John Bates is now living in Wales working as an artist.

These are two 70's dresses for the Jean Varon label. They were both recently sold at http://www.poshgirlvintage.com/ and http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/

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Gina Fratini

Gina Fratini started out her career as a designer for films and theater. Then in 1964 she began her own label.

She was known for her fun, romantic, whimsical designs that was a clear reflection of her earlier work.

Her fame grew in 1971 when one of her gowns was chosen by Princess Anne for her birthday portrait. Even after her business closed in the 80's she was a favourite among royalty and would often design for Princess Diana.

She also collaborated with Ossie Clark and designed gowns for Norman Hartnell.

Here are a few Gina Fratini items for sale:

1970's Maxi Dress, starting bid of £45.00

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZemmapeelpants

1969 Smock Dress, £175

http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginghamgina.html

1960's Dress, £195

http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginafratini.html

This is another designer I am just starting to learn about so I might end up adding on more information later.

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Boutique Video

If you have been enjoying these posts then be sure to check out this video:

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/sixtiesfashion/ingear_video/broadband.html

It goes through the different boutiques on Carnaby St and Kings Rd in the 60's. It features Granny Takes a Trip, Hung On You, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, and I'm pretty sure I saw Biba in there.

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Annacat

I am just starting to learn about the boutique Annacat, so I will try and supply you with as much information as I can scrounge up.

Annacat is one of the lesser known British Boutiques, although it has been referred to as "the Biba of The Brompton Road."

In 1965 friends Jane Lyle and Maggie Keswick opened the boutique "Annacat" at 270 Brompton Rd. Kensington.

The store sold clothes of their own label along with other designers. It has been rumored that they were the original store to supply prominent designer "Laura Ashley."

Their clothes could often be seen in the British editions of Vogue.

A new Annacat was opened in 1968 on Madison Avenue in New York. Then in the early 70's it was bought as wholesale and failed to keep its success.

Here is a sample of their items:

This is a dress from approximately 68-69

(It is currently on display in the V & A Museum)

This is a renaissance style dress from 1969

This is my favourite Annacat dress(from what I've seen) from 1970

All of the images on this entry are owned by Elizabeth Eggleston, the owner of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/

It is definitely in my top 5 online vintage sites. Although it doesn't have any Annacat at the moment it is stocked with lots of other labels that were apart of the British Boutique Movement (including Biba and Ossie Clark!)

Tommorow I will write about Gina Fratini.

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Bus Stop

Bus Stop is one of the more famous British Boutiques.

Owner, Lee Bender along with her husband Cecil opened the store originally as a manufacturing business in 1968. In 1969 they relocated beside Biba on Kensington Church St. as "Bus Stop."

Lee Bender stated - "We chose the name 'Bus Stop' because it was so identifiably British; and red because it was the colour of telephone kiosks, pillar boxes, and London buses."

Early 70's Satin Dress, £95

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

The boutique gained a lot of popularity and eventually opened 12 different stores throughout Britain.

70's Velvet Dress

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

In 1979 it was bought out by "French Connection." Lee and Cecil went on to open another boutique called "Arcade" in 1982.

70's Crepe Trouser Suit, £175

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

Bus Stop had more of a 40's look compared to the 30's look that a lot of the other boutiques of the time were carrying.

70's Crepe Blouse

(http://myworld.ebay.ca/peacock_mink/)

70's Velvet Dress

(www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

My next post will be on the boutique Annacat.

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