Thea Porter

In the mid sixties Thea Porter opened "Thea Porter Decorations" in Soho London selling fabrics, caftans, carpets, pillows and other exotic goods. She soon started to design and produce the items herself due to overwhelming demand.

She became a favourite of many celebrities, including Andrew Loog Oldham and Brian Jones.

"The Thea Porter clothing was wonderful. I had some myself, but had to be careful, I couldn't carry it off the way Brian could. I don't know of what age you are and therefore whether you've ever held a Thea Porter garment in your hands, or worn it, but her work and detail was absolutely exquisite, way beyond the dry cleaning skills of the day. The only way I could give mine a decent life was to check into a good hotel and have my Porter garb attended to there."
- Andrew Loog Oldham

Her clothes were featured in The Beatles "Magical Mystery Tour" album sleeve along with Pink Floyd's "Piper at the Gates of Dawn."

Although the store was in Britain her clothes were well sought after all over the world. In 1968 a boutique was opened in New York followed by an outlet in Paris six years later.

I am not sure exactly when it was that Thea Porter closed her boutiques, if I find the information I will definitely post it.

Porter’s clothes had a bohemian look, using ethnic fabrics and designs.

60's Bohemian Dress, must inquire for price
http://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/

1970's silk chiffon, brocade and velvet dress

(courtesy of the V & A museum)

The three above images are all from the July 1969 issue of vogue and feature the clothes of Thea Porter. They were photographed by Norman Parkinson and shot in Wales.
(courtesy of Elizabeth Eggleston of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

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John Bates

John Bates started his career as an apprentice at Herbert Sidon in the late 50's. Around 1960 he was asked to start the label Jean Varon. Although he claims to have come up with the name himself, "I called it Jean Varon because at the time an English name like John Bates meant nothing, you had to appear to be French. Jean is French for John and Varon because there was no ‘V’ in the rag trade book. Jean Varon made a good graphic image”

John Bates was a huge contributor in introducing the miniskirt. He designed the costumes for Emma Peel on the fourth season of the TV series The Avengers including what he called, "the smallest dress in the world." In 1965 these designs became very popular and sold out through shops within Britain. The same year one of his designs won "dress of the year."

Other designs John Bates helped popularize were the trouser suit(1962), string vest dresses(1963), bridal catsuits, striped tube dresses, the "bikini" dress, and stockings with matching dresses(1964.) He was also known for his pop-art designs, mesh fabrics and the use of PVC (polyvinyl chloride.)

(both above outfits are from 1965)

1967 PVC dress, owned by Elizabeth Eggleston

(It is currently at the V & A Museum)

Towards the end of the 60's the clothing started becoming softer and more feminine. He became more known for his evening wear. In 1972 John Bates formed his own label. He continued to design for Jean Varon, although his own label was a lot more expensive. Sometime in the late 70's or early 80's his label went bankrupt and he decided to leave the fashion business. Jean Varon continued through the 80's with designer Tom Bowker. John Bates is now living in Wales working as an artist.

These are two 70's dresses for the Jean Varon label. They were both recently sold at http://www.poshgirlvintage.com/ and http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/

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Gina Fratini

Gina Fratini started out her career as a designer for films and theater. Then in 1964 she began her own label.

She was known for her fun, romantic, whimsical designs that was a clear reflection of her earlier work.

Her fame grew in 1971 when one of her gowns was chosen by Princess Anne for her birthday portrait. Even after her business closed in the 80's she was a favourite among royalty and would often design for Princess Diana.

She also collaborated with Ossie Clark and designed gowns for Norman Hartnell.

Here are a few Gina Fratini items for sale:

1970's Maxi Dress, starting bid of £45.00

http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZemmapeelpants

1969 Smock Dress, £175

http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginghamgina.html

1960's Dress, £195

http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginafratini.html

This is another designer I am just starting to learn about so I might end up adding on more information later.

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Boutique Video

If you have been enjoying these posts then be sure to check out this video:

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/sixtiesfashion/ingear_video/broadband.html

It goes through the different boutiques on Carnaby St and Kings Rd in the 60's. It features Granny Takes a Trip, Hung On You, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, and I'm pretty sure I saw Biba in there.

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Annacat

I am just starting to learn about the boutique Annacat, so I will try and supply you with as much information as I can scrounge up.

Annacat is one of the lesser known British Boutiques, although it has been referred to as "the Biba of The Brompton Road."

In 1965 friends Jane Lyle and Maggie Keswick opened the boutique "Annacat" at 270 Brompton Rd. Kensington.

The store sold clothes of their own label along with other designers. It has been rumored that they were the original store to supply prominent designer "Laura Ashley."

Their clothes could often be seen in the British editions of Vogue.

A new Annacat was opened in 1968 on Madison Avenue in New York. Then in the early 70's it was bought as wholesale and failed to keep its success.

Here is a sample of their items:

This is a dress from approximately 68-69

(It is currently on display in the V & A Museum)

This is a renaissance style dress from 1969

This is my favourite Annacat dress(from what I've seen) from 1970

All of the images on this entry are owned by Elizabeth Eggleston, the owner of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/

It is definitely in my top 5 online vintage sites. Although it doesn't have any Annacat at the moment it is stocked with lots of other labels that were apart of the British Boutique Movement (including Biba and Ossie Clark!)

Tommorow I will write about Gina Fratini.

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Bus Stop

Bus Stop is one of the more famous British Boutiques.

Owner, Lee Bender along with her husband Cecil opened the store originally as a manufacturing business in 1968. In 1969 they relocated beside Biba on Kensington Church St. as "Bus Stop."

Lee Bender stated - "We chose the name 'Bus Stop' because it was so identifiably British; and red because it was the colour of telephone kiosks, pillar boxes, and London buses."

Early 70's Satin Dress, £95

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

The boutique gained a lot of popularity and eventually opened 12 different stores throughout Britain.

70's Velvet Dress

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

In 1979 it was bought out by "French Connection." Lee and Cecil went on to open another boutique called "Arcade" in 1982.

70's Crepe Trouser Suit, £175

(http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

Bus Stop had more of a 40's look compared to the 30's look that a lot of the other boutiques of the time were carrying.

70's Crepe Blouse

(http://myworld.ebay.ca/peacock_mink/)

70's Velvet Dress

(www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

My next post will be on the boutique Annacat.

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Foale and Tuffin

I'm going to start off with a series of articles on different fashion labels that were apart of the 60's British Boutique Movement.





Fashion Designers Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin met at Walthamstow Art School. They both went on to attend the Royal College of Art.




After graduating in 1961 they opened their own boutique on Carnaby St. and by 1963 they were running a successful business.

1966 Dress Featured in Vogue

(courtesy of the V & A Museum)

They carried mod, fun clothing that was the "in" look.

1966 Mod Dress

(courtesy of the V & A Museum)

They collaborated with Mary Quant and Betsey Johnson for the New York boutique, "Paraphernalia."

Dress that was featured in the September 1st 1964 issue of Vogue

(courtesy of V & A museum)

After 11 years in the fashion business the two separated. Although Marion Foale went on to be a successful name in knitwear.

1969 Dress

(courtesy of V & A Museum)

Dress Modeled by Pattie Boyd

Dress modeled by Jenny Boyd

Dress Modeled by Sandy Moss

(Sandy Moss who was originally a model for Mary Quant, before moving on to be the European buyer for Paraphernalia)

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