nicolasvintageboutiques

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Friday, March 23, 2007

Apple Boutique

Posted on 5:53 PM by ergeg

In the early sixties three Dutch fashion designers named Josje Leeger, Marijke Koeger and Simon Posthua opened the clothing boutique "The Trend" in Amsterdam. Even though it was a success it was closed due to financial problems.

The three designers settled in London after traveling throughout Europe. It was there that they met and teamed up with designer Barry Finch along with his manager Simon Hayes. The group named themselves "The Fool" after the Joker in Tarot Cards.


"The Fool"



Josje Leeger met model Pattie Boyd at Mantagu Square where Ringo Star, band mate of Pattie's husband George Harrison owned a Town House. Pattie loved Josje's designs so much that she mentioned her in an interview and offered to model her creations.



Pattie modelling Josje's designs, August 1967


Pattie wasn't the only person in the Beatles family that "The Fool"'s work appealed too. John Lennon reportedly declared "This is where I want to live" after walking in to their home. He then got them to paint and design his piano and his Gibson guitar. George Harrison also had "The Fool" paint his fireplace.



George Harrison's Fire Place

In September 1967 The Beatles opened a clothing boutique at 94 Baker Street as apart of the new Apple Corps empire. They decided to give "The Fool" £100,000 to design and stock the store. The Fool gathered a group of art students to help them paint the exterior. This angered business owners near by and brought in many complaints. The Beatles themselves were in charge of the interior. Paul McCartney would come in the mornings and ask the workers to change around the store, John would then come in later and order everything to be moved back.

The exterior of Apple Boutique, painted by "The Fool"

In December 1967 Apple Boutique held its opening night. Apple juice was handed out to guests as they walked in. Inside there was a fashion show and circus acts. This is thought to be the first time John Lennon was publicly seen with future wife Yoko Ono.


Opening Night Invitation



John Lennon's childhood friend Pete Shotton became the new manager, he was helped by George Harrison's sister-in-law Jennie Boyd. Other staff were Caleb who slept under the showcase during breaks and a woman who dressed daily in authentic gypsy costume.



Jennie Boyd inside Apple

The boutique ran into problems when Pete discovered that "The Fool" had purchased thousands of pounds worth of luxurious fabrics. The clothes would cost a lot more to make then they would be sold for. When John Lennon was confronted about this he shrugged it off saying, "Oh, let them do what they want. We're not business freaks, we're artists... if we don't make and money, what does it matter?"
Pete Shotton ended up quiting after 2 months. The store had huge changing rooms that were perfect for shop lifters and the designs seemed to be last years fashions.

Pattie Boyd and others model Apple's fashions

In only 7 months Apple had lost almost £200,000. Jon Lyndon, the new manager threatened to ban "The Fool" from the store if they charged any more debts to Apple. They were forced to remove the outside mural and it now was pure white and declared that you were at Apple above the windows.

On July 30th 1968 the Apple staff were told to open the doors the next day and give the stock away. John and Yoko were the first to go through the store, they walked away with arms full of merchandise that they piled into John's Rolls Royce. Paul found one jacket and Ringo said he couldn't find anything that fit. The giveaway was publicised in the newspaper and the next morning there was a line up outside the store three blocks long. There was no limit to how much stock people could take. It was so busy that they opened the basement so that customers could go right out the other side.

"We decided to close down our Baker Street shop yesterday and instead of putting up a sign saying, 'Business will be resumed as soon as possible', and then auction off the goods, we decided to give them away. The shops were doing fine and making a nice profit on turnover. So far, the biggest loss is in giving the things away, but we did that deliberately. We're giving them away - rather than selling them to barrow boys - because we wanted to give rather than sell. Originally, the shops were intended to be something else, but they just became like all the boutiques in London. They just weren't our thingy. The staff will get three weeks' pay but if they wish they'll be absorbed into the rest of Apple. Everyone will be cared for."

- Paul McCartney


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Posted in Apple Boutique, British Boutique Movement, Jenny Boyd, Pattie Boyd, Sixties Fashion, The Beatles, The Fool | No comments

Wednesday, March 7, 2007

Quorum

Posted on 5:15 PM by ergeg

Alice Pollock opened the boutique "Quorum" in 1964. In 1965 Ossie Clark along with his wife, Celia Birtwell joined her.


1965 dress by Ossie Clark



Most of the stores designs were by Ossie and Alice, where as Celia would design the textiles. Many of the clothes sported op-art prints and short hemlines, which were very popular at the moment.


1965 Alice Pollock design

1965 Ossie Clark design

Quorum was known to have extravagant fashion shows. Celebrity's such as The Beatles would attend these.

By the late 60's the hem lines became longer and the designs more romantic.

1969 Ossie Clark design, print by Celia Birtwell

Despite how successful Quorum had become the store fell into debt and was sold to Radley in 1969. All three designers continued their career into the 70's.

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Posted in Alice Pollock, British Boutique Movement, Celia Birtwell, Ossie Clark, Quorum, Sixties Fashion | No comments

Tuesday, March 6, 2007

I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet

Posted on 6:09 PM by ergeg

In the mid-sixties Jimmy Connors founded the store "I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet." It was run by Robert Orbach and owned by Ian Fisk. The original store was at 293 Portobello Road in Notting Hill. Due to great popularity throughout 1966 and 1967 new stores opened on Kings Road and Carnaby Court.






It mainly sold uniforms(most military), movie costumes, vintage and pop-art clothing. Products were also available by mail order.


Jimmy Connor in the shop


I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet was a favourite store of Jimi Hendrix who purchased his well known braided military coat there. Other celebrity's that frequented the boutique were Eric Clapton, The Beatles and The Who. Peter Blake said that he got the idea for the The Beatles Sergeant Peppers album cover while walking past the shop.




The shops soon started to attract tourists. In reaction to this new novelty items such as post cards and ash trays became available.



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Posted in British Boutique Movement, Eric Clapton, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, Sixties Fashion, The Beatles, The Who | No comments

Saturday, February 24, 2007

Thea Porter

Posted on 10:23 PM by ergeg

In the mid sixties Thea Porter opened "Thea Porter Decorations" in Soho London selling fabrics, caftans, carpets, pillows and other exotic goods. She soon started to design and produce the items herself due to overwhelming demand.

She became a favourite of many celebrities, including Andrew Loog Oldham and Brian Jones.

"The Thea Porter clothing was wonderful. I had some myself, but had to be careful, I couldn't carry it off the way Brian could. I don't know of what age you are and therefore whether you've ever held a Thea Porter garment in your hands, or worn it, but her work and detail was absolutely exquisite, way beyond the dry cleaning skills of the day. The only way I could give mine a decent life was to check into a good hotel and have my Porter garb attended to there."
- Andrew Loog Oldham

Her clothes were featured in The Beatles "Magical Mystery Tour" album sleeve along with Pink Floyd's "Piper at the Gates of Dawn."

Although the store was in Britain her clothes were well sought after all over the world. In 1968 a boutique was opened in New York followed by an outlet in Paris six years later.

I am not sure exactly when it was that Thea Porter closed her boutiques, if I find the information I will definitely post it.

Porter’s clothes had a bohemian look, using ethnic fabrics and designs.

60's Bohemian Dress, must inquire for price
http://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/

1970's silk chiffon, brocade and velvet dress

(courtesy of the V & A museum)




The three above images are all from the July 1969 issue of vogue and feature the clothes of Thea Porter. They were photographed by Norman Parkinson and shot in Wales.
(courtesy of Elizabeth Eggleston of http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/)

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Posted in British Boutique Movement, Pink Floyd, Sixties Fashion, The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Thea Porter | No comments

Tuesday, February 20, 2007

John Bates

Posted on 7:53 PM by ergeg

John Bates started his career as an apprentice at Herbert Sidon in the late 50's. Around 1960 he was asked to start the label Jean Varon. Although he claims to have come up with the name himself, "I called it Jean Varon because at the time an English name like John Bates meant nothing, you had to appear to be French. Jean is French for John and Varon because there was no ‘V’ in the rag trade book. Jean Varon made a good graphic image”


John Bates was a huge contributor in introducing the miniskirt. He designed the costumes for Emma Peel on the fourth season of the TV series The Avengers including what he called, "the smallest dress in the world." In 1965 these designs became very popular and sold out through shops within Britain. The same year one of his designs won "dress of the year."



Other designs John Bates helped popularize were the trouser suit(1962), string vest dresses(1963), bridal catsuits, striped tube dresses, the "bikini" dress, and stockings with matching dresses(1964.) He was also known for his pop-art designs, mesh fabrics and the use of PVC (polyvinyl chloride.)



(both above outfits are from 1965)

1967 PVC dress, owned by Elizabeth Eggleston

(It is currently at the V & A Museum)

Towards the end of the 60's the clothing started becoming softer and more feminine. He became more known for his evening wear. In 1972 John Bates formed his own label. He continued to design for Jean Varon, although his own label was a lot more expensive. Sometime in the late 70's or early 80's his label went bankrupt and he decided to leave the fashion business. Jean Varon continued through the 80's with designer Tom Bowker. John Bates is now living in Wales working as an artist.

These are two 70's dresses for the Jean Varon label. They were both recently sold at http://www.poshgirlvintage.com/ and http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/

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Posted in British Boutique Movement, Jean Varon, John Bates, Sixties Fashion | No comments

Monday, February 19, 2007

Gina Fratini

Posted on 7:57 PM by ergeg
Gina Fratini started out her career as a designer for films and theater. Then in 1964 she began her own label.

She was known for her fun, romantic, whimsical designs that was a clear reflection of her earlier work.

Her fame grew in 1971 when one of her gowns was chosen by Princess Anne for her birthday portrait. Even after her business closed in the 80's she was a favourite among royalty and would often design for Princess Diana.

She also collaborated with Ossie Clark and designed gowns for Norman Hartnell.

Here are a few Gina Fratini items for sale:




1970's Maxi Dress, starting bid of £45.00
http://search.ebay.co.uk/_W0QQsassZemmapeelpants

1969 Smock Dress, £175
http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginghamgina.html




1960's Dress, £195
http://www.vintage-a-peel.co.uk/dresses/ginafratini.html


This is another designer I am just starting to learn about so I might end up adding on more information later.




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Posted in British Boutique Movement, Gina Fratini, Sixties Fashion | No comments

Boutique Video

Posted on 7:46 PM by ergeg
If you have been enjoying these posts then be sure to check out this video:

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/sixtiesfashion/ingear_video/broadband.html

It goes through the different boutiques on Carnaby St and Kings Rd in the 60's. It features Granny Takes a Trip, Hung On You, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, and I'm pretty sure I saw Biba in there.
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Posted in Biba, British Boutique Movement, Carnaby St, Granny Takes a Trip, Hung On You, I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet, Kings Rd, Sixties Fashion, Videos | No comments
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